South Australia`s Riverland is a lush, vibrant region defined by the Murray River on its passage through the state. With its warm, dry climate, Riverland is known as a food bowl, producing much of Australia`s citrus, stone fruit, and grapes. The landscape is a picturesque blend of sun-drenched vineyards and orchards, towering ochre cliffs, and tranquil wetlands teeming with birdlife. The river is the lifeblood, providing not only irrigation for agriculture but also a playground for water-based activities like houseboating, kayaking, and fishing. On a road journey through the Riverland, we stopped at a few places including Renmark, considered to be its heart and a gateway to the region for travelers from the east. . The Riverland area is so pretty, it definitely deserves much more time than we could afford to give it, not to mention the southern part as the Murray makes its way to the Lake Alexandrina and its eventual outlet.
BrandAction map showing the towns we visited along the Sturt Highway in Riverland SA.
View of the Murray River from a clifftop near Waikerie. [4627]
Pole in Renmark showing past Murray River flood levels. [4644]
Renmark
Established in 1887 by Canadian-American brothers George and William Chaffey as Australia's first irrigation colony, Renmark pioneered the very farming methods that transformed the arid landscape into the productive oasis it is today. The town`s historical significance is preserved in landmarks like the Paddle Steamer Industry, which once worked the river
We knew none of this before our arrival, but the 1897 Renmark Hotel was the British Empire`s first community-owned hotel as a unique experiment to control drunkenness. (are there any others? Please put your hand up.) The town of Renmark, an irrigation colony founded by the teetotaller Chaffey brothers, was initially a `dry` settlement with a prohibition on alcohol sales. However, this led to a thriving illegal `sly grog` trade, resulting in unconstrained drunkenness and an uncontrolled liquor supply. To address this issue, local residents proposed a Swedish system aimed to eliminate the profit motive from alcohol sales, which was seen as a primary cause of excessive drinking. A community-elected board would own and manage the hotel, and staff had no financial incentive to push alcohol. All profits were to be reinvested into the town for community benefit, rather than being privately pocketed. After a successful petition to the South Australian government, a license was granted. The Renmark Hotel was founded on this principle, becoming the only legitimate liquor outlet in the area and effectively killing off the sly grog trade. This innovative approach transformed the pub from a den of vice into a respectable community hub, demonstrating a novel way to manage alcohol consumption and benefit the town. It`s intriguing to think that excessive consumption follows prohibition, and that legal supply tempers that consumption. What a quirk of human psychology! The pub is still in community ownership, but the profit motive has diluted its purity - a gaming room was opened in 1996 with 40 poker machines. Through many renovations and enlargements since 1897, the present Renmark Hotel is a magnificent three storey art deco building.
We didn`t spend much time in Renmark (or any of the Riverland towns) but a very nice fresh sandwich was had for lunch at the Renmark Patisserie in Renmark Ave after a recommendation by a local we met.
Art Deco beauty is the Renmark Hotel. Wikipedia says that this hotel was the first community owned hotel in the British Empire! [4646]
The 1911 paddle steamer `Industry` was used as a workhorse, clearing the Murray River and in the building of its locks and weirs. It became a working museum piece in 1995, and still makes steam occasionally at its home in Renmark. [4651]
The boiler of the PS Industry, all ready to go. [4632]
Firewood prepared for the PS Industry. [4632]
A grove of exotic palms and native gums sit together in harmony on the banks of the Murray River in Renmark. [4647]
Waikerie
Waikerie is a pretty town on the south bank of the Murray River atop impressive limestone cliffs, near Holder Bend and about 80km from Renmark. It is a major hub for citrus, stone fruit, and viticulture. The town`s name is derived from the local Aboriginal word `Wei kari` (`many wings`) in reference to the giant swift moth. Silo art entitled `Healthy River, Healthy Community` is a highlight of this town, jointly painted by artists Jimmy Dvate and Garry Duncan. The murals adorn both sides of the silos, so a land and river view. The artwork features native flora and fauna, including a giant yabby, the endangered Regent Parrot and Murray Hardyhead fish. A clifftop walk along the river offers many fine views.
View of the Murray at Waikerie with a glimpse of a lagoon named after Jaeschke whose family farmed the region previously known as `Pooginook` (`abundant food`). [4626]
Spectacular Silo Art in Waikerie with the theme `Healthy River, Healthy Community`, by Jimmy Dvate and Garry Duncan.[4622]
Yabbie, in Jimmy Dvate and Garry Duncan`s Silo Art in Waikerie SA. [4615]
Paringa
The town of Paringa lies east of Renmark. The 1927 Paringa Bridge which now carries the the Sturt Highway across the Murray was originally a combined road-rail bridge, but there have been no trains since the 1980s and the rail path is now only for pedestrians and bicycles. The vertical-lift span is opened twice a day for river traffic, but we didn`t see that happen. In the town is a magnificent example of modern silo art, painted by Jack Fran and Sam Brooks, it features many aspects of river life (houseboats, paddle-steamers, fishing) as well as silhouetted memorials to district pioneers. The artwork is visible from all sides.
Pelicans enjoy fishing in the Murray River. [4667]
Looking up the pedestrian reserve on th historic Paringa Bridge across the Murray River. Trains and cars/trucks used to share this reserve. [4655]
As seen through a mirror aiding traffic vision, a truck exits the Paringa Bridge. [4661]
Eccentric residence on the Murray near Paringa, with a sign saying `My Chooks Eat Carp`. [4663]
Montage of various views of the multiple murals by Jack Fran and Sam Brooks on these silos in Paringa. [4675]
