Aussie Places

Patonga, and nearby Pearl Beach...

2021-2022

Tucked away at the southern end of the Central Coast, Patonga (Darkinjung: 'oyster', pop:235) is a serene coastal village that offer a tranquil escape from the city. Patonga, a small fishing village nestled on Brisk Bay, is known for its quiet, calm waters, perfect for swimming, kayaking, and stand-up paddleboarding, except when its very brisk, obviously. There is a scenic ferry from Palm Beach across the Hawkesbury River. The beach is dotted with working fishing boats supplying fresh seafood, which we saw being unloaded into refrigerated trucks. The village has a relaxed vibe, with the popular Boathouse Hotel providing a picturesque spot for a pizza and beer with water views. Before European settlement started to displace the local aborigines in about 1860. In the 1930's Great Depression, unemployed people moved here because they could live cheaply off the land. There was road access after 1937.

Patonga`s unique charm is defined by its prime location on Brisk Bay (probably named after its seasonal very cold winds and choppy seas), which gives it a distinctly different feel from a typical ocean beach. The bay`s calm, sheltered waters are a direct result of being tucked away at the mouth of the Hawkesbury River, with the imposing headlands of Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park and the iconic Lion Island acting as natural barriers to the swell of the open ocean. The view from Patonga is a highlight in itself. Across Brisk Bay, there is the distinctive shape of Lion Island. Named for its resemblance to a sphinx or a crouching lion, this uninhabited nature reserve is a significant landmark and a protected habitat for a colony of Little Penguins and other seabirds. Further to the southeast, you can see the mouth of Broken Bay and, in the distance, the famous Barrenjoey Lighthouse at Palm Beach, a scenic landmark that adds to the visual appeal. A connection to Pittwater is reinforced by a regular ferry service from Palm Beach making it a popular day-trip destination for those on Sydney`s Northern Beaches. This mix of being a secluded, quiet village while also being easily accessible by boat from a major city hub is what makes Patonga so special. It's a place that feels a world away, yet is just a short, scenic ferry ride from one of Sydney's most vibrant coastal communities.

The Boathouse Hotel...

The magnet which attracted us to Patonga was the opportunity to stay at the Boathouse Hotel. This pub breathed new life into the town after its 2017 sale and 2018 renovation. The venue has a relaxed, chic-coastal vibe with a focus on fresh food, tasteful decoration, and a relaxed atmosphere. The beer garden is a central feature and is the reason many people come. It sits right on the water`s edge of Brisk Bay. We saw that it was a popular spot to enjoy a cold drink on a sunny day, with a casual, walk-in dining experience that makes it a perfect place for a spontaneous lunch or a long afternoon with friends. Live music enhanced the late afternoon and evening. The mod-Ausmenu featured fresh seafood and Aussie classics, reflecting its seaside location. Above the pub and eatery, the Boathouse offers luxurious accommodation, three well appointed apartments with balconies and water views. That accommodation turned a day trip into a luxurious weekend escape for us. We can`t imagine Patonga without it.

Patonga Creek, at the back...

Tidal Patonga Creek, snaking its way behind the main Patonga foreshore, offers a different, more rustic charm than the open bay. This is the working heart of the village, a scene of quiet industry and laid-back coastal life. Along its banks, the homes are often built on stilts, their decks offering front-row seats to the gentle ebb and flow of the tide. Here, the water is calmer still, a haven for small, beached tinnies, the quintessential Australian fishing boats, often half-submerged in the soft mud at low tide. This is where the local oyster leases are located, their mesh baskets and wooden frames a testament to a long-standing tradition. The atmosphere is one of relaxed authenticity, a world away from the manicured lawns and bustling cafes of other coastal towns. The creek is a place of solitude, a photographer`s delight, and a living snapshot of a genuine fishing village that has resisted the urge to become just another tourist hotspot.

The Pearl of Broken Bay...

Just a short drive (or a strenuous bushwalk) over the headland is Pearl Beach (pop: 500] facing Broken Bay. True to its name, this `gem` is a stunningly beautiful suburb, its residences blending seamlessly into the surrounding Brisbane Water National Park, being the home away from the city for many high profile celebrities and politicians. PB has its own 25-metre ocean rock pool, which we sampled with one or two determined lap swimmers. We can`t resist a rockpool! The beach is protected by facing north-east towards the Box Head peninsula. The 4km walking track from Patonga to Pearl Beach through the National Park is a rewarding highlight for those so inclined, offering breathtaking views of Broken Bay, Lion Island, and the surrounding bushland.

The foreshore reserve at Pearl Beach (d.1984) was named after Paul Landa, a NSW Labor politician in recognition of his work in law and environmental reform. He might have had a holiday house at Pearl Beach - his daughter now lives here.