Aussie Places

Mildura, on the Murray...

August 2025

Australia`s Fruit Bowl

Mildura (pop: 58,000) is a large regional city in north-west Victoria. Located on the southern bank of the Murray River, it`s situated near the borders of New South Wales and South Australia, making it a key hub for the entire Sunraysia region. The city is a significant service and administrative centre for this vast, agriculturally rich area and, as a regional centre, it plays a crucial role in providing essential services like healthcare, education, and retail for a wide geographical area. It`s a major hub for the production of grapes and other irrigated fruits, earning it the nickname Australia`s Fruit Bowl. While the city`s economy is heavily reliant on agriculture and associated industries, including food processing and wine production, its unique location on the river also makes it a popular tourist destination, thanks to its sunny climate, paddle steamers, and easy access to outback attractions like Mungo National Park. We stayed in town for three nights to relax and regroup from an arduous itinerary.

Mildura is a fine city in its own right, but we were attracted to the river which, like everywhere along the Murray, teems with both history and wildlife, not to mention memorials to past glories and floods. As usual, we tried to capture (in digital images) as many birds as possible. Mildura has Lock 11 in the giant Murray-Darling water management system, and it is, apparrently, the only Lock and Weir which are separated by an island, imaginatively named Lock Island. There`s nice views and plenty of birdlife to be viewed from Lock Island, and it hosts the Trail of Lights, a commercial light show open at night. The factual descriptions of the birds we managed to photograph along this section of the Murray River are mostly AI generated from whichever websites it has harvested, probably a lot from Wikipedia.

We contemplated Lock Island island: since the border between NSW and Victoria is on the Victorian bank, it means that NSW `owns` the river. So is Lock Island in NSW? No, as it turns out - here the border wraps around the island to keep it in Victoria. It makes sense when you look at the map and walk the ground. You can`t walk from NSW onto the island, but you can from Victoria across the lock gates.

The Houseboat Rental industry on the Murray River, very strong near Mildura, is a thriving tourism sector offering a wide range of vessels for hire, catering to all budgets and group sizes, from small, basic boats to large, luxurious vessels with amenities like spas and multiple ensuited bedrooms. A standard car license is all that`s needed to operate these boats. Houseboats allow renters to explore the river`s scenery, towns, and other attractions at leisure. There are estimated to be 40 houseboats for rent around Mildura, and another 60 altogether on the Murray.

We were advised to enjoy an afternoon beverage at the Gol Gol Hotel, and we did so, but, on a perfect Sunday, were surprised to find the whole place virtually deserted. Gol Gol (meaning `meeting place`, pop: 2000) is on the NSW side of the river, about 5km east of Mildura.

Downtown Mildura...

Mildura boasts several historically significant buildings that reflect its unique founding as an irrigation colony. For example, there is the 1908 Carnegie Centre, a notable public building, once serving as the town's library. The Mildura railway line reached the town in 1903, providing a crucial link for the region`s burgeoning agricultural industry to the markets in Melbourne. This connection was vital for the export of dried fruit and other produce, and it rapidly supplanted the Murray River paddle steamers as the primary mode of transport. For decades, the overnight passenger service, The Vinelander, connected Mildura with Melbourne, but it was discontinued in 1993. While passenger services no longer run, the station still serves as a bus depot, and the line remains an important freight corridor for the region`s agricultural output.

We have to express our disappointment with the Mildura RSL Club where we took dinner one night. It`s housed in a new and gaudy building dated 2017 with an extension in 2024. This high-tech audio-visual palace placed just too much emphasis on gambling, of which all types were available and encouraged - poker machines, keno, TAB and a meat raffle. Worse still, it seemed virtually every patron (of which there were many) were participating in one form of gambling or other. There is clearly a market for gambling, and the Club needs to be profitable, but here it is too tempting for people who may not be able to afford too lose too much. We did`nt hang around after dinner.

Quest Apartments in Mildura...

We spent three nights in Mildura, so it made sense to book an apartment with kitchenette and laundry facilities. The Quest fitted the bill, with the advantage of being within easy walking distance of the CBD and the Murray River. In our experience, the Quest chain is a reliable provider of adequate, well-managed, no-nonsense apartments, and Mildura matched this description. It also aligned with our experience of inadequate or awkward parking, but we coped with that OK. Check-in was interesting: we were smilingly upgraded to a two bedroom apartment, but when we got there, the second bedroom was locked. We enquired and were told that you have a two bedroom apartment, you just can`t use the second bedroom because it will then require cleaning. So our second bedroom upgrade was really just a locked door! They said that we did have a bigger living area because of the second bedroom, so for that we should be grateful. The shower featured an illuminated head which changes colours. The LEDs are powered by a tiny internal turbine. We did not know of such a device, but discovered that they are readily available for about $50. The bathroom was quite good - it had an exhaust fan which was actually effective in the windowless room, and two decent towel rails, better than many much more expensive hotels.