Kangaroo Island, after the fire

Kangaroo Island, Australia`s 3rd largest

Kangaroo Island (pop: 5,000), located off the coast of South Australia, is a pristine natural sanctuary known for its abundant wildlife, dramatic coastal landscapes, and unspoiled wilderness. Just a short ferry ride or flight from the mainland, the island spans over 4,400km², making it Australia's third-largest island. Kangaroo Island is home to native animals such as kangaroos (we saw plenty), koalas (we saw two or three), echidnas(one only), and sea lions (plenty), many of which thrive in their natural habitat free from mainland predators.

Quoting: "the ‘Black Summer` of 2019-20 saw large-scale bushfires in Australia making news headlines worldwide. A disaster at a level never experienced here before, the bushfires on Kangaroo Island significantly impacted the landscape. During a scorching summer ..., lightning strikes ignited fires first on the north and north-eastern coasts of the island on 20 December 2019, then in Flinders Chase National Park ten days later. Over several weeks, the Kangaroo Island fires burned ... almost half of the island. It is unknown how many of the island`s wild animals perished, along with the estimated 32,000 head of stock and domestic animals that died. The widespread fires also damaged or destroyed homes, businesses—including some tourism venues—grazing land, forests, crops, machinery, and infrastructure, and two people tragically lost their lives." [https://www.tourkangarooisland.com.au/visit/general-information/bushfires-on-kangaroo-island] We spent 6 nights in luxurious circumstances in one of those tourism venues which was lost, but now rebuilt.

Kangaroo Island`s latest problem is a huge harmful algal bloom which is (belatedly and at last, according to South Australians) receiving attention in national media and by the Federal Government. Today`s update (20 August 2025) in the SA government Department of Primary Industries and Regions website read on says `elevated chla is observed from Kingscote to Penneshaw on Kangaroo Island` which places it on the opposite side to where we spent most of our time. We confess to not noticing anything resembling what we would perceive to be algal bloom in the coastal areas we visited.

How was Kangaroo Island was so named? It`s not as if they were first discovered here (by Europeans)! The name was applied by Matthew Flinders in 1802 when the HMS Investigator landed near Penneshaw (`safe anchorage`) after four months at sea mapping the Australian coast and living on dry rations without fresh meat. Even though there were no established settlements, why they didn`t land anywhere else to hunt is a bit of a mystery. From his diary: `The whole ship`s company was employed ... in the skinning and cleaning of kangaroos. After four months` privation they stewed half a hundredweight of heads, forequarters and tails down into soup ... and as much steaks given ... to both officers and men as they could consume by day and night. In gratitude for so seasonable a supply, I named this south land KANGAROO ISLAND`. Flinders noted the lack of any indigenous population on the island. Archaeologists believe that the Kartan people lived on KI up to 16,000 years ago when the island was still connected to the mainland. The Kartans, who migrated north during cold winters, had no seafaring skills, it seems, and they deserted the island when sea levels isolated it, about 10,000 years ago. Exactly why is disputed, naturally, but this aboriginal depopulation cannot, for once, be blamed on Europeans!

Kangaroo Island`s prolific wildlife...

Some website we looked at said that Kangaroo Island is like a `zoo without fences`. There`s certainly a lot of wildlife to be found, and little of it is in cages or enclosures. But, to be sure of finding desired wild critters, so called `reserves` are the go. So sea lions are in a Conservation park, kangaroos and koalas are easiest to spot in nature reserves, which may be privately owned, so thanks to those owners! Cape Barren Geese are abundant, but if you want to be sure to see them, drive into Flinders Chase National Park etc. etc. Unfortunately, dusk, night and dawn are good times to spot kangaroos and possums crossing the road, and these guys don`t seem to have any street-smarts. You have to be careful to avoid them. Luckily KI has very little traffic (at least in winter, when we were there) and even less at night.

Australian Sea Lion

Australian sea lions are one of the rarest and most endangered sea lion species in the world, found only in southern and western Australia. They are known for their distinctive sandy-yellow fur and strong social bonds. After two or three days at sea, up to 100km offshore, these marine mammals haul out on remote, sandy beaches and rocky coastlines to rest, breed, and raise their young. The Seal Bay Conservation Park on the island is in a protected bay and is home to a significant breeding colony. Females always return to the same place, males not so much. The conservation effort is crucial because their population is declining, and during our visit, guides expressed concern at their low levels of activity. Plenty were seen lazing around on the beach, but few entered the surf to go fishing during our visit, and we wonder whether the present algal bloom was to blame for their reluctance.

Cape Barren Goose

One of the rarest geese, the Cape Barren Goose is endemic to Australia but not native to Kangaroo Island where the species was introduced. There is a protected colony in the Flinders Chase National Park where they seem to occupy a grassy plain astride the main road to The Remarkables. They are not endangered but precious, so road signs warn of them and restrict speed to 20km/h for a short distance. The CBGs migrate to the mainland in spring, but we were there in winter. They graze, feeding on tussock grasses etc. While they are regarded as `flighty` and best viewed at a distance, the mob we saw seemed to be reasonably comfortable with our presence.

Kangaroo Island Koala

Kangaroo Island Koalas, a slightly distinct species, became famous in the fires of 2019-20 when their habitat was burnt out and their population was decimated, but they are not native to Kangaroo Island. In the 1920s, in a project to stem declining numbers on the mainland, eighteen koalas were released in Flinders Chase National Park. The population grew, but only about 1% of the island is preferred Koala habitat, certain eucalypts, which then became over-browsed and damaged. The population is now carefully managed. They have also evolved somewhat, being stockier, having fluffier ears and longer fur than their mainland brothers. [https://www.tourkangarooisland.com.au/visit/iconic-wildlife/koala] We saw our koalas at the Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary which features a `Koala Walk ... recognised as the best place on Kangaroo Island to see a sustainable population of Koalas in the wild` [https://southaustralia.com/products/kangaroo-island/attraction/hanson-bay-wildlife-sanctuary] They were hard to find at first, especially in dull drizzly conditions which even the koalas don`t like, but after a while, we found a couple of cooperative specimens.

Kangaroo Island Kangaroo

Yep, it`s a distinct species, moreso than the koalas. "The Kangaroo Island Kangaroo is a sub-species of the Western Grey Kangaroo. As a result of a prolonged period of isolation from mainland Australia, the Kangaroo Island Kangaroo is noticeably different from other Western Grey species. Due to the Kangaroo Island landscape, this species have adapted to being shorter, stockier and a darker chocolate-brown colour. They characteristically have darker tips, such as ears, paws, feet and tails." [https://australianwildlifejourneys.com/blog/2018/07/02/33/species-feature-kangaroo-island-kangaroo] Our best view of KIKs was at Grassdale near Hanson Bay, a privately owned reserve we think, nearing dusk, near the cutely named Sugar Gum Track. It is said that, lacking predators (dingoes mainly), KIKs are less nervous than wild mainland kangaroos, but we found that most of these KIKs still liked to keep their distance from us. Luckily we have long lenses!

Eastern Osprey

A SOL guest told us of an osprey nest along the cliff-top walk west of Hanson Bay. Since these birds are classified as `vulnerable` in South Australia, and Wikipedia says there are only only 50 breeding pairs along the coast of the entire state, this was exciting news. When our Photo Safari program was over, we went looking for it. The nest was easily found on a very exposed rock pinnacle, and indeed, it was home to two Eastern Ospreys, no doubt a breeding pair, who might have been guarding eggs or chicks, but it is a bit early in the season. With a comfortable ledge to sit on, we were able to observe the nest for hours, even though it rained a bit. Both birds went fishing, usually alternately, but the nest was sometimes left unguarded for periods, suggesting that there was not, yet, anything to watch over. When in the nest, the ospreys appeared to be ever watchful, mostly looking in the air, not the sea.

An Island of much Physical Beauty

The remarkable Remarkables

The Remarkable Rocks are a striking rock formation located on the coast within Flinders Chase National Park on the western end of the island. Known for their unusual shapes and dramatic coastal setting, they would be the island`s most iconic natural attraction. These ancient granite boulders sit atop a windswept headland overlooking the Southern Ocean. The Remarkables were formed over 500 million years ago when overlying rocks weathered away leaving a harder granite dome. Over time, the forces of wind, rain, and salt spray sculpted the rocks into the smooth, curved shapes and balancing forms of the present Remarkables. Their vivid colours add to their visual impact. The hues come from a combination of natural processes. The orange, red, and yellow tones are caused by lichen — slow-growing organisms that thrive in the harsh coastal environment. The dark streaks and stains are the result of oxidation, where iron minerals in the granite react with air and moisture. These colourful patches contrast sharply with the pale grey of the underlying granite, giving the formations their unique, almost surreal appearance. We visited the Remarkables twice for photoshoots- once at a miserable wet pre-sunset, and then again as clouds dispersed to reveal a brilliant sunrise. The difference in appearance from these two lighting conditions is stark!

The admirable Admiral`s Arch...

Admirals Arch is a spectacular natural rock formation located on Cape Du Couedic (named in 1803 to honour a French naval commander, died in action two decades earlier), the southwestern tip of Kangaroo Island, within Flinders Chase National Park. This iconic archway, possibly the most dramatic landscape on the island, was formed over thousands of years by the forces of wind and ocean waves eroding the limestone cliffs, gradually carving out a tunnel-like structure through the headland. The result is a stunning, rugged arch framed by jagged rocks and stalactite-like formations hanging from its ceiling. Visitors reach it via a boardwalk that winds through the surrounding coastal landscape, crossing over the arch itself, then ending at a viewing platform perfectly positioned facing west to see the arch and the crashing waves beyond. Also the colony of long-nosed fur seals, which can be seen lounging on the rocks below or swimming in the waters nearby. The natural beauty and ecological richness of Admirals Arch make it a key feature of Kangaroo Island`s unique environment. It exemplifies the island`s rugged coastline, diverse wildlife, and the powerful natural processes that continue to shape the land. Above the arch is the Cape Du Couedic lightstation which was first lit in 1909 after the loss of clipper Lock Vennachar(1905) and barque Lock Sloy(1899) nearby.

The scene of Kelly`s demise...

On the island there is an underground labyrinth of limestone caves thought to extend for kilometres, apparently mostly unexplored, called Kelly Hill Caves. We were able to undertake a tour with an exceptionally enthusiastic National Park guide (sorry, we`ve lost her name) who explained how the caves were first discovered. Someone`s horse, called Kelly, supposedly fell down a sinkhole entrance to the cave system. Its rider climbed out, but the horse disappeared and has never been found. Our guide was skeptical of this story, arguing logically that horses are substantial in size and can`t just disappear. She thinks that it is more likely that the rider discovered the sinkhole serendipitously and took the opportunity to concoct the story and sell Kelly to repay gambling debts. The part of the cave system, 500,000 years old, open to our tour was not large. We entered via a very steep staircase, traversed a passage of limetone formations maybe 50m long into a large cavern in which an impressive sound and multi-coloured light show, which told the history of the earth, had been established. (There is adventure caving available, going much deeper into the cave labyrinth than we bunnies were able to.) Unlike Jenolan Caves in NSW, Kelly Hill caves are quite dry, and we could only be shown one single water droplet. These caves must have taken a long while to form.

And everywhere else...

We thought that the wind-blown coast of Kangaroo Island was particularly beautiful and we really only saw a small fraction of it. The KI Wilderness Trail which runs from Kelly Hill Caves deep into the Flinders Chase National Park is part of an intricate network covering the entire island but we didn't have time (and probably not fit enough) to do any more than we did. But, apart from what`s mentioned above, we did spend some time on the cliff edges and beaches around Vivonne Bay, Cape Du Couedic and Hansons Bay where we saw great scenery and even the odd seal. Enjoy some of our photos below!