Cape Jervis, gateway to Kangaroo Island
Cape Jervis is a tiny but growing town, pop ~350, at the south-west of the Fleurieu Peninsula, about 88 km from Adelaide, popular with bushwalkers and fishermen, but the reason we came here was because it was the mainland terminal of the ferry route to Kangaroo Island. The town has spectacular views over Backstairs Passage to the island, and its houses are positioned to take advantage of them. The town`s modest landmark is a striking inverted pyramidal lighthouse. and it marks the start of the Heysen Trail, inviting hikers into nearby Deep Creek and Talisker Conservation Parks. The port is undergoing a massive improvment project, by the look of it, with two major contractors in action.
Wining, Dining and Staying in Cape Jervis
It`s a tiny town is Cape Jervis, and as a waiting ferry passenger, there`s not much to see here except gape at the views to the sea. Fishermen stay longer, of course, and charter boats are available, we`re told. Just watching the ferries loading and unloading is worthwhile entertainment. We did enjoy a drink at the local pub, and the guy running it, who also has the General Store in the same building, was cheerful and helpful. The pub had a few customers, all locals, and the banter between them was lively and jolly. Meals are available at the pub, but we had heard of something different and decided to try it. A very nice lady called Amanda will prepare a meal from a menu and deliver it to your accommodation. Her business is called Second Valley Eats which she runs from a town (name is obvious) about 17km away. She must know the road well - she arrived at Big 4 exactly on time, and the freshly made meal for the two of us was still hot and very delicious. Everything comes in throw-away packages so there`s nothing to return to her.
Just out of Cape Jervis, we stayed at the Big 4 Accommodation and Caravan Park in one of its Homestead subdivisions. We couldn't find much else available. The property was once Cape Jervis Station, a farm of 10 square miles, first established in 1851 by Frederick Ransford. We wanted the Settlers Cottage because of its open fire, but it was not available. Accommodation is very tight in Cape Jervis because of a massive improvement project being undertaken at the port. What must have been the farm`s homestead, a large rambling cottage, has been subdivided up to several`motel-style rooms`. Ours was bright and clean, air-conned and equipped with a TV and a kitchenette (no sink) and a tiny bathroom, but was very basic, with shabby furniture. The aircon couldn't heat the room, and the elecric blanket did not work. We`ll call it barely adequate for a one-night stay. The property has a mini-mart, and a bar, but provides no meals. There is WiFi only in the reception area. We had no phone reception at our homestead, despite nearby towers, but OK at reception - must be in a shadow? The property is still operating as a hobby farm, and guests can participate in animal feeding.
Under threatening skies, Cape Jervis shows off its unusual lighthouse and its sustainablity credentials with a windfarm on the hill. [3329]
Viewing right into the setting sun, the inverted pyramid shape of the Cape Jervis lighthouse is highlighted. [3291]
Houses in Cape Jervis do their best to take advantage of the views across Backstairs Passage. This one is particularly successful. [3324]
Beer and vodka on the drinks menu at the Cape Jervis Hotel. [0127]
Pine cones on the ground make a pretty sight at Cape Jervis. [3308]
This is the Homestead at the Big 4 Cape Jervis, which had been brutally divided into 7 holiday units. Our tiny one was accessed by the door in the middle of this image. [3285]
The chicken coop on the grounds of the Big 4. They were interested, but we had nothing for them. [3307]
We wanted to book the Settlers` Cottage at the Big 4, but it was not available. [3312]
The SeaLink Ferry
We had booked on the ferry to Kangaroo Island, run by SeaLink, months in advance because we feared it might get booked out, but, it's the off-season and there was no need. When we figured out the ropes, by watching from the hill at the port, we easily changed our booking to an earlier departure. The port area is a mess - there are two substantial improvement projects going on there to improve, we read, turn-around times for the ferries. Turning around took 30 minutes or more. It was a casual, unrushed, orderly affair (nothing like the Greek ferries to the islands!) but it must get more hectic in summer! The crossing to Kangaroo Island was just a little rough. We were grateful it happened at all - we heard there are frequent cancellations due to big seas or strong winds, including within the previous week. SeaLink is quite the operator, owned by Kelsian (an anagram), with a lot of logistics businesses in Australia and overseas. SeaLink employs two ferries on the Kangaroo Island run - the Sealion 2000 and Spirit of Kangaroo Island. We think we went on the latter. SeaLink`s exclusive use of the Cape Jervis port is reported to be a source of displeasure amongst relevant stakeholders.
Amid a large port reconstruction project, the SeaLink ferry departs Cape Jervis for Kangaroo Island. [3286]
Nothing but admiration for these truck drivers reversing their rigs onto the SeaLink ferry. That`s a B-Double already in place. [3299]
By our estimation there were 1000 sheep here coming off the ferry and headed to some mainland abbatoir. [4435]
Earthworks underway at Cape Jervis port. We understand the improvements are to reduce turn-around times for the ferrys. [3326]
