Nestled on the southern edge of Port Hacking, Bundeena is a unique coastal village that feels worlds away from the urban sprawl of Sydney, despite being within the city's metropolitan reach. Surrounded almost entirely by the heritage-listed Royal National Park, it serves as a tranquil cul-de-sac where the bush meets the sea. The name "Bundeena" is widely believed to be an Aboriginal word meaning "noise like thunder", likely referencing the sound of the ocean waves crashing against the rugged sandstone cliffs on the east side of Jibbon Head. European interest in the area began in the early 19th century, the first official land grants being made in 1831. Early settlers utilized the land for timber and grazing, and by the late 1800s, it became a destination for "sly grog" makers and fishermen. During the Great Depression, Bundeena grew as a refuge for those seeking a self-sufficient lifestyle, leading to a collection of modest weekenders and shacks that eventually evolved into the permanent village seen today. Today, Bundeena is home to about 2,000 residents, including a high concentration of artists and artisans. The village transforms on weekends as it welcomes (or maybe just endures) thousands of visitors. It serves as the northern gateway to the 26km Coast Track, a world-famous hike leading toward Otford. Bundeena remains a rare example of a community living in harmony with the Australian wilderness.
The Curranulla
Part of Bundeena’s charm is its relative isolation despite its proximity to the sprawling metropolis of Sydney. You can drive there, 20 minutes winding through the National Park, but we chose to arrive by ferry. The historic MV Curranulla is Australia's oldest commuter ferry and has been running a regular service from Cronulla since 1939, offering a nostalgic 20-minute crossing. It's name, like Cronulla itself, means "place of pink sandshells". The Curranulla was purpose built for this shallow crossing with a draft of only 1.07m, and it replaced an older ferry which had been running since 1915. Cronulla wharf is a very short walk from Cronulla Station on the Sydney train network.
The Dharawal
Long before European arrival, the area was home to the Dharawal people, who have inhabited the region for thousands of years. Their legacy is etched into the landscape, most notably through the 2000 year old rock engravings at Jibbon Head, which depict Dreamtime spirits: whales, Burriburri, kangaroos, Marloo and other wildlife. The soft sandstone here has allowed the carvings to weather, and despite considerable effort to preserve them, we can see where the engravings are, but in the noon-day sun, the patterns were indecipherable. Apparently the Dharawal style was to overlap figures, making interpretation even more difficult. We read that Dharawal men would regroove the engravings during ceremonies, but the arrival of Europeans put a stop to that practice. Ignorant white men walked directly on the rock platform with their hard soled boots, effectively destroying the artwork.