The Day the SA Drought Broke!
Peterborough South Australia was always meant to be just a whistle stop for, a place to break a long journey on the Barrier Highway. And it was, but it also happened to coincide with the day the 8 year South Australian drought broke. There was probably not enough rain to satisfy the farmers, but the weather was filthy, cold, with gale-force winds and driving, almost incessant rain. Our few hours and an overnight in Peterborough were hardly pleasant. The town, pop. 1400, is about 10km north of the Barrier Highway in the south east of South Australia. It is famous for a number of reasons, mostly revolving around its railway heritage. It is one of 69 places in Australia which were renamed due to anti-German sentiment in World War I, having originally been called Petersburg by its founder in the late 19th Century. (It`s tempting to make it `Petersborough`, but there is no `s` in the name.)
In a soggy park, one of a number of impressive welcome signs to Peterborough highlighting the town`s railway heritage. [3158]
In 1883, Bob the Railway Dog took to travelling on trains with his owner from near Peterborough. He discovered he liked it, and ventured out on his own, going as far as Sydney and Melbourne. He was mourned by the railway community when he died in 1895 and commemorated in this statue by Silvio Apponyi. [3193]
A rainbow over a railway crossing could well be the symbol of our soggy stay in Peterborough. [3196]
A Soggy Day in Peterborough...
All we could do in Peterborough was walk the Main Street, dodging rainy periods. It was a weekend, but we might have expected more businesses to be open. With its grand heritage, and despite its small size, Peterborough has some fine buildings to look at, including a number of pubs. We noted at least three still running, in Main Street. With little else to choose from, we dined at one of the pubs, making a pretty random selection from amongst them. There were notable public buildings, as well as interesting churches in the back streets.
You can't have high expectations of an old motel in a small whistlestop town. We stayed at the Roundhouse Motel which was quite a distance from the real railway roundhouse at the other end of town. The restaurant was closed permanently, a sure sign of decline. The Motel was very basic, but there had been sincere efforts to smarten up the bedroom with bright, new furniture. Our room had front and back doors, one facing the inundated carpark, the other the closed-for-winter pool. There was no hiding the tiredness of the building, what with broken lightswitches, exhaust fan not working, rattling and flimsy doors. The tiny bathroom was freezing. The gale outside did not help, nor the huge puddles on the ground. We feared our ground level room might flood overnight, but morning came and the huge puddles outside had not breached us, not even nearly. That said, the broadband was excellent, the aircon and TV and most lights worked, the sheets were clean (the carpet too, we think) and the water was hot (and high pressure, bravo!). The receptionist was friendly and helpful.
This map shows that the town of Peterborough is neatly bisected by the railway. The pedestrian subway which links the two halves is fenced off and unable to be used. Not a good sign, but we don`t know if it is permanent, [2149]
Opened in 1927, the Peterborough YMCA had accommodation for 28 young men, as well as a gymnasium and other facilities. It`s now a museum. [3165]
The Art Deco style new Peterborough Town Hall first opened in 1928 and included a hall good for 1000 people. It has been a cinema and function centre, but is now used by the Council again. [3168]
This Post Office in Peterborough dates to 1882 but has been since enlarged. In 1962 it housed the first telephone exchange `of its type` in Australia, and was automated in 1980. Its good to see a post office still in its original building.[3170]
This first Town Hall in Peterborough was built in 1884, but was regarded as an unsatisfactory `shed`, so a new facade and second storey was added. It was replaced by a new Town Hall three decades later.
The Peterborough Cabinet Makers store is well decorated and has a nice shopkeeper mural on the side. [3181]
We`re not sure which pub this window was at, but it no longer has the name Fahey`s. The reflection invited a selfie. It`s so annoying that there are always garbage bins and cars to spoil a good image. [3176]
The Railway Hotel is where we settled on for dinner in our one night in very wet Peterborough. The dining room was half busy, and there was a Lions Club type function in an adjacent room. [3183]
An old player piano looking grand inside one of Peterborough`s hotels. [3177]
A moving war memorial in Peterborough, featuring poppies, cutouts of marching soldiers and the words `Lest We Forget`. [3189]
Overhanging Main Street Peterborough, a motor-bike mounted on the first floor of an old pub. [3185]
View of Peterborough`s Main Street. That cafe was not open when we needed it! [3188]
Mr. E. Hoile`s Main Street building in Peterborough has been rebirthed as a Gift Shop. [3190]
The 1881 Junction Hotel in Peterborough lost its roof to a fire on Christmas Day 1970, but this modest hotel is still going as far as we can see. [3192]
It was pretty damp in our parking spot at Peterborough`s Roundhouse Motel. [3833]
Railway Museum Closed...
Peterborough is built on its railway heritage. During the 1950`s, over 100 steam-trains passed through town every day, but those days are long gone. Still, the town boasts one of only three triple-gauge (standard, broad and narrow) railway junctions in Australia, all in SA. And it is the home of a Bob the Railway Dog statue commemorating a renowned and beloved train traveller. The Indian-Pacific passes here twice weekly, but no longer stops, and ee don't know if any passenger train serves the town. So we looked forward to a visit to the Steamtown Heritage Rail Centre, a roundhouse and associated buildings once a major railway repairs and maintenance facility. But no, it was closed, due to damage suffered the previous day`s strong winds and rain. The reception area was open with some exhibits, but other than that, we had to be satisfied with what we could see outside.
The only old steam-engine we could see at Steamtown, closed due to weather damage. [3163]
A steam engine displayed at the Peterborough War Memorial. [3174]
Free Entry to this historic railway carriage maybe, but it was closed on Saturday afternoon. [3159]
Breakfast in Hallett...
The helpful receptionist at the Roundhouse Motel thought there would be cafes open on Sunday morning in Peterborough, but when we looked for a breakfast spot, we could find none. Maybe it was just too wet (but the weather was starting to improve) or we were just too early (but it was about 09:30) or everyone was trying to get Steamtown going (just joking?)? So, we headed out of town, going south towards Adelaide. In half an hour, we rolled into the tiny town of Hallett (pop: <200) and to our delight, found a shop open. Our coffee needs were saved!
This shop in Hallett, 55km due south of Peterborough, was where we eventually found something open. Good coffee, plus bacon & egg rolls, mmmm. [3198]
Our breakfast stop in Hallett was not only a cafe, but a collectables shop, post office and real estate agent, with a very friendly host. [4919]
