Broken Hill, where BHP started...
Broken Hill (pop: 17,000), the `Silver City`, in the far west of NSW, has an arid climate, with hot summers and mild winters. It is famous as one of Australia`s boomtowns, thanks to its mineral riches. Despite its isolation, 1100km from Sydney and surrounded by desert, the city is a cultural hub, boasting a vibrant arts scene, partly due to its iconic status in Australian film and literature. Its street art and galleries are major attractions, as is the nearby Living Desert Sculptures, an outdoor gallery of large-scale artworks set against the desert backdrop. Weirdly, Broken Hill adopts South Australian time rather than NSW time - apparently this arose when Broken Hill`s only rail link was with Adelaide. Street names in Broken Hill often reference rocks and minerals, reflecting its mining history - prominent examples include Argent Street, Cobalt Street, Crystal Street, and Beryl Street.
Broken Hill welcome sign on Pro Hart Way, the road into town from the airport. [2933]
Abandoned (we think) minehead in the Line of Lode in Broken Hill. [3048]
Cafe with a great view over Broken Hill, but the sign says `Closed`. [3133]
Threatening clouds over Argent Street, at the entrance of Broken Hill CBD. [3143]
City in the shadows of the mullock heap...
Broken Hill is a city wrapped around a giant mullock heap of ugly mining waste which defines the skyline of the city. The township itself features a distinctive blend of heritage architecture and outback charm. The streets are lined with well-preserved late 19th and early 20th-century buildings, reflecting Victorian, Federation, and Art Deco styles. Wide boulevards and verandah-covered shopfronts dominate the town centre, giving it a spacious, timeless feel. Landmarks showcase intricate brickwork, iron lace, and period detailing. Many homes are classic miner`s cottages—simple, corrugated iron structures adapted for the harsh desert climate. Some public buildings have grand facades and ornate elements not that common in remote towns, a testament to Broken Hill`s former wealth and significance. Overall, Broken Hill`s architecture stands as a testament to its resilience, combining functional outback design with surprising architectural sophistication in a uniquely Australian setting.
Argent Street is Broken Hill`s main CBD thoroughfare, and the fire there in 1888 was devastating. The blaze broke out in a drapery store and rapidly spread along the main commercial strip, destroying over 20 buildings. Fueled by high summer temperatures, strong winds and the wooden construction of most shops, the fire caused immense damage before it was contained. With no formal fire brigade at the time, townspeople battled the flames using buckets and hand-pumps. A year later, in this boom-town, everything had been rebuilt. In its present form, walking around Broken Hill is a photographer`s delight!
We spent six nights in Broken Hill and chose the 19 unit single storey Red Earth Motel, an establishment we had previously patronised maybe 10 years ago. It's still in good nick. It is well located on Argent Street, and easy walk into the CBD. We noted that railway crews stay at the Red Earth, a sign that this is the preferred accommodation in town. Maybe because of our longish stay, we got upgraded to a two-bedroom suite which we found to be clean, spacious and well equipped. The swimming pool was operating, despite it being Winter, but it was way too chilly to attempt a dip.
Westbound arrivals welcomed to Broken Hill, with a giant tailings heap overlooking the town. That car has been on the dirt road access. [3151]
The main street of Broken Hill is Argent Street. The CBD is centred on Argent, and occupies several busy blocks. [3104]
Rather exploiting its initials, the Broken Hill Pub was where we had our best meal in this town, from an excellent menu. First opened in 1886, underwent numerous name changes and renovations until re-emerging as BHP in 2020. [2839]
Inside the bar at the Broken Hill Pub. [1817]
Possibly the most upmarket pub in Broken Hill, we had a good dinner here. [3027]
Inside the bar at the Astra Hotel in Broken Hill. [0100]
Broken Hill`s Palace Hotel was built in 1889 as a coffee palace by the temperance movement, so it is ironic that it is now an alcohol serving pub used for many scenes in the movie `Priscilla, Queen of the Desert`. [3058]
In 1980, indigenous artist Gordon Waye was paid to paint murals in the Palace Hotel. Most are landscapes. The murals were described as `tack-o-rama` in the movie `Priscilla, Queen of the Desert`. [3062]
The first Willyama Hotel was lost in the 1905 fire. We're not sure if the current hotel is actually in business, but there's a popular Chinese takeaway inside that left-hand door, and a motel out the back. [3102]
The Centennial Hotel was first licensed in 1889, became a favourite with the shearers, but was delicensed in 1990 with the license transferred to The Bourbon in Kings Cross, Sydney. The Centennial is now a private residence. [3145]
Torpys is an apparel and clothing outlet in Argent Street, Broken Hill, in an art deco styled building. [3054]
The Broken Hill Town Hall dates to 1906, but only its facade remains. Behind it is currently being built a new City Library. [3066]
The 1905 Trades Hall Building in Broken Hill is a symbol of the struggle for workers` rights in this city and beyond. [3073]
Bells is an iconic, traditional milk bar located in South Broken Hill. [2942]
Behind the counter at Bells Milk Bar in South Broken Hill. [2938]
Story Poles artwork on a vacant block in Argent Street, Broken Hill. [3052]
The striking rear of this building in Sulphide Street Broken Hill. [3080]
This old house in Broken Hill is liberally clad in corrugated steel. [3083]
This old house at the Block 10 Lookout in Broken Hill features a three car parking area. The lookout provides views of the Southern Operations part of the Line of Lode. [3107]
Colorfull corrgugated steel fence seen in Broken Hill. [3150]
Kangooroo mural on the side of a hairdressing salon in Broken hill. [3090]
In our week in Broken Hill, the Cafe Alfresco became our favourite place for coffee and breakfast. [3093]
The Red Earth Motel is entirely covered with solar panels. [1211]
The Mines of Broken Hill...
Broken Hill Proprietary Company Limited (BHP) was founded in 1885. It began after German boundary rider Charles Rasp (1846-1907), mustering sheep in employment from Mount Gipps Station, discovered, in 1883, rich silver-lead-zinc ore deposits in an area he described in his diary as having a `broken hill`. Rasp and a group of investors formed the Syndicate of Seven to mine the ore body, along the Line of Lode (a vein of rich ore lying within a rock formation), one of the largest in the world. The original broken hill was mined away! BHP quickly grew, expanding its operations beyond silver and lead into iron ore, coal, and steel production, and evolved into a global giant.
Since 1975 (or was it 1939?), BHP no longer has a mining presence in Broken Hill. Mines that are still active appear to be the underground silver-lead-zinc Rasp Mine on the Line of Lode, also Southern Operations which consolidates some older mining enteroprises. The Pinnacles Mine, exploiting an open-pit zinc ore deposit, is 15km out of town. Around the Line of Lode, we did not see any mineheads which were obviously operating. Visitors are not encouraged, except to the heritage-listed Line of Lode Reserve which is effectively a giant tailings heap, the iconic Broken Hill landscape. We suppose it encompasses what must have been BHP`s magnificent seven mining claims. Mining artifacts and heritage listed industrial buildings are on the Reserve, but most notably a Mining Memorial honoring the many who died in workplace accidents. The top of the Reserve offers great views over the town, and near the memorial has a splendid building which looks to be a cafe and function centre but is closed.
This 1885 chimney is all that remains of the very first BHP office in Broken Hill. [2909]
The signage is not clear, but this home appears to be the BHP Mine Manager`s residence. [2914]
Busts by local artist George De Main celebrating the seven miners, including Charles Rasp, who collectively pegged out the easily worked ores along Broken Hill`s Line of Lode, eventually the BHP mine. [3074]
A very moving memorial to miners who have died at work sits on top of the huge BHP tailings heaps in Broken Hill. [2840]
Tragic reminder of how many miners have died at work in Broken Hill mines. [2875]
Visitors examining names at the Broken Hill Line of Load Miners` Memorial. [2906]
Caption Undefined
Huge ore train (off to a processing plant?) at the Line of Lode with Broken Hill city in the background. [0956]
Pink shipping containers celebrate Charles Rasp`s contribution to Broken Hill. This may be the minehead of the still operating Rasp Mine. [0408]
The 1900 Delprat Shaft on the Line of Load was closed by 1976, and became a tourist mine, but that closed in 2007 due to nearby active mining. [3137]
Mineral display in the Broken Hill Pub. [2441]
Stunning Sculptures and a Cultural Walk...
The Broken Hill Sculptures, located in the Living Desert Reserve, hills about 10km north of Broken Hill, are a striking collection of twelve sandstone artworks, created out of the same materials as the desert. The project was inspired by the sandstone buildings of Wilcannia, a town generally not noted for anything other than trouble. Created in 1993 by international and local artists during a sculpture symposium, these large-scale works sit atop a hill, an amazing blend of art with the natural outback landscape. Each sculpture reflects a unique cultural or spiritual story, drawing from themes of nature, history, family and heritage. The site offers panoramic views of the desert landscape and back to the city. On an adjacent hill, but covered by the same entrance fee, is an unheralded flora & fauna reserve encompassing a Cultural Walk which is well worth the effort.
The Broken Hill Sculptures are scattered around the top of a lonely desert hill, fitting the landscape perfectly. [2693]
The bas relief statue `Motherhood` by Badri Salushia of Tblisi, Georgia is a portrait of his son & wife. [2685]
From Mexico City, Antonio Nava Tirado`s dramatic sculpture is titled `Under the Jaguar Sun` and looks right at place in this desert environment. [2696]
Circle carved more than 30,000 years ago by the Bo-arli people of the Wilyakali. No idea what this represented! [2766]
Signage at the Cultural Walk Trail warns visitors of harsh weather and electrified fences protecting a fauna reserve. [2704]
The entrance gate to the John Simons Flora & Fauna Sanctuary, containing the Cultural Walk Trail, warns of electrical fences. [2705]
These story poles have been created by students of aboriginal culture in Broken Hill. Story poles were not used historically, but are modern interpretations of ancient traditions. [2725]
Rainbow serpent (ngatyi) detail from a story pole in the Broken Hill Cultural Walk. [2729]
The texture of the walking surface up the hill in the Cultural Walk Trail. [2720]
The Wilyakai people were building shelters, Yapara, here 20,000 years ago, using broken mulga and leafy branches from turpentine or emu bush. This one is a relica on the Cultural Walk.[2724]
This Willy Wagtail was enjoying the scuptures in the desert outside of Broken Hill. [2730]
360 degree directional indicator at the top of the hill in the Broken Hill Living Desert Reserve, with Mike`s shadow. [2743]
View of the Living Desert, complete with modern Story Poles from the students of the Broken Hill Art School. [2747]
This shaft yielded nothing but frustration. Its thought the prospectors were seeing signals of copper, or silver, lead & zinc, but they came up blank here. [2755]
On the Living Desert Cultural Walk, an old indigenous quartz quarry. Ancient aboriginals smashed the quartz to produce sharp shards useful for skinning, cutting and fighting. [2761]
Broken Hill Railway...
The railway history of Broken Hill is deeply tied to its mining heritage. Initially, rail transport played a vital role in supporting the silver, lead, and zinc mining boom that began in the late 19th century. The Silverton Tramway, opened in 1888, was the first major rail line, connecting Broken Hill to the South Australian rail network at Cockburn. This narrow-gauge line enabled the export of ore and the import of essential goods, and explains why Broken Hill has adopted the South Australian time-zone. In 1970, it was replaced by a standard gauge line linking Broken Hill to the transcontinental railway system, improving efficiency and national connectivity. The completion of this link made Broken Hill a key stop on the Indian Pacific route, which runs between Sydney and Perth. The railway`s development not only supported the region`s economy but also helped transform Broken Hill into a strategic inland transport hub, cementing its significance in Australia`s industrial and railway history.
The Broken Hill railway station in Crystal Street opened in 1919 with a line to Menindee, but it was not until 1927 until it was linked to the rest of the NSW system. [2787]
The Outback Explorer provides a train service between Broken Hill and Sydney, but only once per week. [2806]
The Indian Pacific stops at Broken Hill so the passengers can take day-trips. The Indian Pacific route is 4,352km, from Sydney to Perth. [2817]
A drag queen welcomes day-tripping Indian Pacific passengers to Broken Hill. [2832]
So long is the Indian Pacific that it blocks multiple crossings in Broken Hill while it shuffles forward to allow all passengers to disembark. [2835]
Seen from the Line of Lode Reserve, the front part of the Indian Pacific. In all, it is 25 carriages long. [2862]
The Royal Flying Doctor Service...
The Royal Flying Doctor Service (RFDS) was founded in 1928 by Reverend John Flynn, a Presbyterian minister who recognized the urgent need for medical services in remote areas of Australia. Flynn had spent years working in the Australian outback, where he witnessed the isolation and lack of medical care faced by people living in rural and remote communities. Inspired, he envisioned a `mantle of safety` using radio communication and aircraft to deliver healthcare across vast distances. Enabled by Alfred Traeger`s invention of a pedal-powered radio, and some serious financial support, the first flight took off from Cloncurry, Queensland. The RFDS now operates Australia-wide out of bases established in major regional centres, uisng a fleet of 81 aircraft and four-wheel drives on the ground. The location of the Mount Gibbs Station, employer of Charles Rasp who discovered precious ores, is now the site of the Broken Hill RFDS base and museum. We visited the base which is at the Broken Hill airport. The staff there were enthusiastic to the point of beeing boorish, and discouraged us from leaving until they were sure we had seen everything!
Retired Nomad N22C aircraft at the RFDS base, proven suited to Australia`s rough country airstrips, now painted as VH-MSF, the aircraft used in the TV series 'The Flying Doctors' . [2920]
The RFDS Museum in Broken Hill houses a number of retired aircraft. [2922]
Rather terrifying looking dental kit as carried by early RFDS aircraft. [2924]
A simulated emergency call to the Flying Doctor is a feature of the RFDS Museum display. The lady was calmer and more rational than most people in her position, we think.[2925]
World War One Hostilities...
We were amazed to discover, by accident, that there were WW1 hostilities in Broken Hill, and not only that, they were the only hostilities in that war, anywhere on Australian soil. All this, we learned from an interpretive sign. On New Years Day 1915, a picnic train, bound for Silverton, was ambushed by two Turkish sympathisers. Four passengers were killed, and seven wounded. Just another example of innocent civilians being the victims of war. The two attackers were killed later at White Rocks in a three-hour gun battle with police and volunteers. Who would know?
This open truck marks the spot on the Silverton Tramway where the WW1 ambush took place. [3110]
A rather damaged old photograph of a picnic train of the type attacked by the Turkish sympathisers. [3115]
A 1991 replica of the ice-cream cart used by the two Pakistanis, sypathetic to the Turkish cause in WW1, to stage their attack on the picnic train. The cart is at White Rocks, 3km from the scene of the attack, where a shootout with police ended their lives. [3120]
